Atlantic Rowing Race: Blog 47

March 11th, 2010

Mel’s Blog – Monday 8th

Note – due to satellite comms problems, this blog is being published a little later than it should be, but hopefully it all makes sense anyway.

Hi everyone

Hope you all had good weekends having roast dinners, reading papers, socialising, going for walks in the countryside and other things which seem a world away to us.

Unfortunately we had what has become a typical weekend of battling unfavourable weather. The wind has been going gradually south and building and by yesterday (Sunday) we had made progress west in our boat which loves to go sideways. All we could do was north-west, but that was preferable to being on para-anchor. Progress has been quite slow and has required every ounce of energy on every stroke. During the worst hours we were only moving at 0.5 of a knot and half of that was in the wrong direction. Rowing is usually a pleasurable experience and when you place the blades in the water and drive down with the legs you can feel the boat pick up and as soon as you drag the blade through the water you can feel the boat go under you as you up the slide. It was so far from that yesterday it was laughable. Forget treacle, this was like rowing in setting concrete. Moving the boat required an almighty effort and up the slide you could feel her going backwards or sideways! And all that for 0.25 of a knot!

Effort like that costs though. We’re both feeling it today, pretty much everywhere. Thankfully the wind died off early evening and we were able to make progress west again. Today has been mostly west, although the wind is still gradually forcing us north-west at times. It’s supposed to die off and then come back from the east later today. We sincerely hope it does because at the moment, conditions are making that bar in Antigua seem a long way off.

Mel. xx

Bonjour from Mont Blanc

March 10th, 2010

Phil, our agent based in Chamonix organises tours in France, Switerland and Italy for us and has written to us about their preparation for the coming summer season. He gives us an insight into what all the tour leaders have been up to in the winter months, and what springtime brings to the Alps.

Over to Phil…

Chamonix 9th March 2010
Bonjour from Mont Blanc !

Chamonix looks stunning and the skiing is still fabulous, but the thaw has begun on the lower slopes and we are all limbering-up for the Alpine summer season. Thank goodness it is no longer minus 10 every day!

Chamonix-Mont-Blanc

Chamonix-Mont Blanc in the summer

We welcome Jonny Mitchell to our team: he’s a qualified mountain bike guide spending his winters in Andalucía and summers in the Alps and Ardèche. He will be leading our family activity holidays and adult multi-activity holidays such as Mont Blanc Explorer and Mont Blanc Activity Week.

Cycling in the Alps

Family cycling in the Alps

Emily Andrew has been on an expedition to Alaska and Cat Freeman spent several weeks guiding in Southern India .  Phil Jarratt has been cutting snowshoe trails throughout the Chamonix valley and Joy O’Flanagan has been perfecting her ice climbing and skiing. All are jostling to lead the best treks!

Kayaking on the Ardeche

Family Kayaking in the Ardèche

We are all looking forward to trekking, biking, rafting and climbing in the warm Alpine summer and can’t wait to welcome new visitors this year. In the meantime, there is still some great powder snow away from the main pistes!
Phil Mansbridge

Iconic views of the Matterhorn

Iconic views of the Matterhorn from the Shadow of the Matterhorn Tour

Atlantic Rowing Race: Blog 46

March 5th, 2010

Annie’s Blog – Friday 5th March: Making Progress

The wind continues to be behind us and the swell with us so Explore is still racing on towards Antigua and all is good on board.

We’re currently trying out a new watch system, 3 hours on and 3 hours off during the night  instead of 2. Mel and I are both liking it – I feel if you can manage 2 hours o the blades, there’s no reason you can’t manage one more. But the real benefit comes in the off-watch. 3 hours sleep in one stretch is absolute luxury. Saying that though we are currently finding that neither of us can get enough sleep – the second we stop rowing it seems like we’re asleep. Why we’re suddenly more tired than we have been I don’t know. I guess 2 months at sea, exercising 12 hours a day is finally getting to us.

The other thing we can’t get enough of is food. I’m sure we’d eat while still rowing and during our sleep if at all possible. We’re probably going to be the only crew that actually puts on weight rather than lose it – and there was me planning out my new size 10 wardrobe. Oh foolish me!

All things considered though we’re both holding up well. I think I can speak for Mel too when I say our bums are still our most problematic areas – even the most hardcore pain killers are not reaching the spot. Thankfully the severe pain comes and goes. Last night I was trying to devise a plan where I could row standing up, but now I feel fine. My bum obviously has a mind of its own, which is a little worrying.

One thing that happened when we both were both on deck at the same time was we were privileged to be given a display of synchronised swimming by a group of dolphins – what is the collective noun for dolphins anyhow? (it’s a pod – Ed.)

They were leaping about all in perfect harmony and seemed utterly happy and carefree. There was probably mass fishy slaughter going on under the surface that we were totally unaware of.

Anyhow, time for a quick snooze and a bite to eat before I hit the blades again

Annie xx

We will be tracking Annie and Mel’s progress and posting more of their blogs here. Keep up to date and find out why we are supporting them here. Track their progress across the Atlantic here.

Everest Base Camp Trek

March 4th, 2010

Chris Ellis, one of our Adventure Travel Consultants recently completed our Everest Base Camp trip – a 19 day trekking adventure in Nepal with a 12 day camping trek to Everest Base Camp including an ascent of Kala Pattar and great views of Everest.

Here, he describes the highlights of the trek day by day, and we ask him for his tips on completing the trek – as well as getting to the bottom of what the accommodation, facilities, food – and of course the trekking are really like!

Day by day account of the Trek
Day 3: Kathmandu:  Head out for a 3 hour city tour with local guide, visiting Assan Bazaar, Durbur Square and d Kumari. Lots of nice temples, both Hindu and Buddhist, and lots of noise, chaos, fruit & veg and warm meat out on the street. Oh and we can’t forget the odd cow strolling about!

Durbar Square

Durbar Square: Kathmandu

Went to traditional Nepalese restaurant for dinner, sit on the floor and eat traditional cuisine, a bit like Tapas with lots of different dishes, lots of curries and tit bits, very nice. Also restaurant has traditional dancers and music going on throughout. Nice touch.

Day 4: Fly to Lukla: We board a tiny 15 seater propeller driven plane for the most amazing flight of my life! Lukla airport is something special. It is a tiny runway clinging to the side of a mountain at 2800 metres, very hairy!

Runway at Lukla

Coming in to land at Lukla

Start 3 hour walk to Phakding, going from 2800m to 2500. Nice acclimatization walk, stunning scenery!

Arrive at Phakding which is a small village, arrive to our tents already up, next to a teahouse. Immediately handed tea and biscuits – I can definitely get use to this!

Day 5: Brought morning tea by Sherpa boy, wake up and have a wash.

Move in to teahouse to have breakfast – muesli eggs and pancakes with tea and coffee.

Set off for walk, the plan is to walk to Namche Bazaar, ascending over 800 metres!

First part fairly flat, stop for lunch at the side of the river. The kitchen boys had ran ahead of us and knocked up a 3 course lunch by the time we got there! Curry, japati’s and vegetables. Prepare ourselves for the ascent up Namche Hill.

Hit Namche Hill and climb a steep uphill for about 3 and half hours. Hard graft, time to crack out the poles and the energy bars!

Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar: The town clings to the side of the mountain

Arrive at Namche, which is the heart of the Sherpa community, with a population of about 700 people, with a pub and internet café! Time for a stroll around and buy some more strange novelty gifts.

Day 6: Walk to a view point where we can see Everest for the first time!

First glimpse of Everest

Everest in the distace (left-most peak)

Day 7: Climb to 3,800 m, visit Thangbouche monastery Get unpacked and find out we have stunning views of Everest at sunset – I get a little snap happy!

Thangbouche Monastery

Thangbouche Monastery

Day 8: After waking up feeling unwell, I started to walk and found the up-hills a real struggle. The tour leader recommended that myself and one other member of the group stay in Pangbouche (looked after by one of the Sherpas) for extra acclimatisation and to get our strength back. We check into a basic but very comfortable teahouse for the night.

Day 9: After a great nights sleep, the Sherpas (who are all in radio contact with one-another) arrange for our bags to be taken on to where the rest of the group is – Dingbouche. With help from our Sherpa (who gallantly carries our bags) and taking it VERY slowly, we arrive at Dingbouche and catch up with the rest of the group, really good to see everyone again, and everyone really happy we made it.

Day 10:  Walk from Dingbouche to Lebouche Arrive at field of dreams after a steep 300 metre climb. Field of dreams is a large memorial site to both Sherpa’s and expeditions that have died trying to conquer Everest and other mountains. Very moving. It is starting to get really cold so break out the thermals when I get into my tent!

Field of Dreams

Field of Dreams

Day 11:  Ascent of Kala Pattar – After an incredibly difficult climb, I arrive huffing and puffing to the summit of Kala Patter. I’m absolutely shattered, but it is the most euphoric moment, and words can’t describe how fantastic the views are. Everybody makes it to the top! The group’s resolve and determination is fantastic. We have some tea at the top and take plenty of pictures and take in the views. We are so lucky as there is not a cloud in the sky!

Me at the top of Kala Pattar with Everest over my right shoulder

Me at the top of Kala Pattar with Everest over my right shoulder

Days 12-16: is spent descending to Lukla and returning to Kathmandu where we have some time to relax, take a bath, chill out by the pool and do a spot of shopping.

Day 17:  We visit the Hindu temples and medieval Bhaktapur. Then its time to go out for our last meal together, the ‘last supper’ if you will. We go to a great bar, where every group gets a cardboard foot, where you can write about your adventures and put it on the wall, along with others. Edmund Hillary has a foot there, along with a lot of other famous summiteers.

Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur

What one piece of advice would I give to everyone doing this trip?
Take it slowly. It isn’t a race and the trek guides and Sherpa have everything under control. Going slowly helps your body to acclimatise and increases your chances of success. Also, make sure you are physically fit enough to be able to walk uphill for several hours at a time. (oh – and make sure your walking boots are well worn in!).

What was the accommodation like?
We spent two nights at Hotel Malla in Kathmandu at the beginning of the tour, and a further two nights at the end (bliss!). It was a very nice 4* with a great central location. During the trek, our tents were set up for us by the great crew. Thermarests were provided for sleeping on, and we ate in either an adjacent teahouse or a dining tent. We had fixed long drop toilet or toilet tent facilities at each camp, and at some locations we were able to use the teahouse washing and toilet facilities. Otherwise, we were brought hot water in the morning for washing.

Campsite at Thangbouche

Campsite at Thangbouche

What was the food like?
Incredible! The food in the traditional Nepalese restaurant in Kathmandu was lovely, but the food on trek was amazing – I don’t know how they manage it!.

Breakfast usually consisted of Muesli/ cereal and toast, and sometimes eggs and pancakes!
At lunchtimes, the crew went on ahead and prepared a 3 course meal which consisted of things like curries, pasta, japatis, salads and vegetables – in the wilderness!
Dinners were things like pasta dishes (great for replenishing energy levels!). The most memorable was spag bol with water buffalo meat. Very tasty!

What was the trekking like?
I had done a couple of walking holidays in Europe (Mont Blanc & Canary Islands), so knew that I would be in safe hands with Explore in Nepal. However, I was blown away by the team work of the crew in Nepal, the friendliness of the Sherpas – one of whom invited us into his home, and how they coped so easily when things didn’t go according to plan. (That kind of confidence can only come from experience I think!). They did everything they could to make sure that the whole group arrived at the top of Kala Pattar, in one piece and with huge smiles on our faces. The trekking itself was obviously demanding, and we all suffered with the altitude to varying degrees, but the experience of the crew helped make sure we all achieved what we came here to do.

Group at top of Kala Pattar

The whole group made it to the top of Kala Pattar – an amazing feeling!

Chris did our Everest Base Camp trip. If you are feeling inspired to Trek in Nepal, why not take a look at our Trekking in Nepal page.

Atlantic Rowing Race: Blog 43-45

March 4th, 2010

Another catch up blog – find out how Annie and Mel are doing now they have less than 700 miles to go! As before I have put the most recent at the top so it stays in the same order as the rest of the blog. Find out about their frustration at not being able to pick up the trade winds, and what it is like to get really close to whales!

Annie & Mel: Sorry we have haven’t been in contact with you, we’ve been in an area of very bad satellite phone reception, but we are back in vague reception now and there has been lots going on. So here we go!

Blog 45 Monday 1st March: Going – good-to-firm

We are back to the conditions that Explore loves. Boats are like racehorses – there are conditions they love and conditions they don’t. Explore 101% loves a swell and the wind behind her and then she absolutely flies. I took the opportunity whilst swimming to see how she sat in the water, which is easier now that we are eating our way through the supplies, But sitting ‘in’ the water perhaps isn’t the right expression, more like ‘on’ the water as there were inches of the anti-foul hull above the waterline – which basically makes her a 25 foot long board and explains why she loves these downwind conditions. It also explains why we struggle with side winds as there is no resistance in the water to stop us going sideways and as people can probably see from our course we have been going sideways and backwards over the last week or so.

All’s good now though as we’re flying towards Antigua and those problems are in the dim and distant past.


Blog 44 Thursday 25th Feb: Going no-where. Fast.

I wrote this log on Wednesday but haven’t been able to phone it through as we have had no reception. I know since then we have posted our worst day ever in terms of mileage, but it wasn’t for lack of trying. After our talking to yesterday we tried absolutely everything. But as if to prove me wrong the weather has conspired against us. As the boat gets lighter it gets more and more susceptible to changes in conditions and with this change in weather Annie and I are constantly moving food around the boat to get her properly trimmed to take the conditions. We have it down to a fine art now!

We did that yet again and rowed hard west but the weather totally conspired against us sending us North East despite everything. Even though it’s our worst day it’s the best mileage of the boats around us, which is some reassurance.  It doesn’t do anything for our record attempt though; it just means we have to work even harder for it! This isn’t known as one of world’s toughest endurance races for nothing!

So we spent Thursday night on the para-anchor. It obviously wasn’t what we wanted at all, very disheartening to yet again be stopped and actually drifting backwards. Sill we made the most of it, which is conducive to one of us being always on deck constantly monitoring the wind and the swell to see when we could set off and the other one was sleeping. It was a beautiful night, loads of stars out, nearly a full moon. We actually found a miniature of whiskey, so I had a lovely time sat on deck watching the stars, drinking my whiskey, listening to my iPod – one that I know I will remember. Its nights like that that are half of what this race is about.

Thursday morning and conditions had changed a bit and we set off again. We were making slow progress – but we were making progress – but conditions got steadily worse. And over Friday, Saturday, Sunday had some kind of horrendous ground hog day. It Involved rowing our hardest to get Explore to move in a positive direction, putting extra hours in so that we could row two up, extra hours in the sweltering heat, I think we actually got heat exhaustion, but despite trying as hard as we could we eventually got to a point where we couldn’t get any positive direction at all and were on anchor again. By the time that conditions had changed and we could lift the anchor we had drifted back all the miles that we had made the day before. And this happened on Friday, and on Saturday, and again on Sunday. We literally ended up back at the same degree of longitude, a bit further south, but the same degree from east to west as we started.

I can’t describe how soul destroying that was; we really did try our hardest to make that westerly progress and to have it all taken away from you in 12 hours on para-anchor and just have to go out and do it again, I guess is what this race is about. It’s about just getting on with it and saying there is no point getting demoralised by it, that won’t get us to Antigua any quicker let’s just get our heads down and get on with it. When we found out on Sunday that we posted 17 miles -  it took every ounce of positive energy we’ve got left not to get demoralised. But we are not demoralised we are just plodding on. So having a fun day. We have had enough of this fighting west and so we decided to go straight south. I had avoided that up until now as I don’t want to end up south of Antigua. Winds are from the northeast in this area, now I know this isn’t a typical year but I know that it is very difficult to get north again if you end up south of Antigua. We had a policy that we wouldbn;t go below Antigua, but we decided that if rowed south all day on Sunday we wouldn’t actually yet be south of Antigua. We’d heard the wind was going to fill in so we hoped we’d get blown west before we reached the latitude of Antigua – and guess what…for once the weather p[layed ball and that did indeed happen.


Blog 43 Monday 22nd Feb- Having a ‘whale’ of a time
We have waited 50 days for it but it’s finally happened. We have had an up close and personal marine experience – with whales and not just once but 3 times. Annie was on deck the first time on the pre dawn watch, it was very dark as the moon had set and she woke me up to put the deck lights on. She sounded worried so I wondered what had happened: another fish down her cleavage? Nope – a whale had exhaled so close to the boat she had got wet! Sadly it was so dark we couldn’t actually see it but Annie heard it around for another 20 minutes.

And a few hours later on the next watch I was merrily going along iPod blaring when out of the corner of my eye, I saw some waves breaking near the boat. This was odd as it was fairly flat. I did a double take and realised they were breaking over the back of an enormous whale about 15ft from the boat! I shouted to Annie but by the time she was on deck it had over-taken us but we watched it head off into the distance on a mission to go somewhere. I don’t know what sort he was sadly but it had a very small dorsal fin and about 20 ft long, for anyone who can help.

The lasting impression I will have is the noise of it moving through the water. I could tell he was huge from that, it was graceful but was obviously constantly moving huge amounts of water. I have seen whales before but this was by far the best as we are so close to the water – about a foot, it was just at the end of my blade.

I was on the blades for the third sighting, yes Annie is very jealous! It was dark but the moon was out and bright and out of the corner of my eye in exactly the same place I saw a black shape – two in fact. I looked again and saw the hump of one and the tail of another and it dived – amazing. Again sadly Annie missed it.

To see so many in one day is unbelievable, it makes me think we are on a migratory route. Whatever the reason I feel very privileged to see them in their environment.

We have given ourselves a bit of a talking to on Explore: we are not happy with our recent performance – in fact I would go so far as to say we are embarrassed that so many crews have overtaken us. And we think we know what the problem is; we think it might be us. Ok, the weather and the fact that most of our competitors are boys are factors but we are beginning to wonder whether we are trying hard enough or could we do more. When lots of other crews overtake you and do more miles than you, these are the sort of questions that enter your mind.

It sounds odd to say this, but I think we have it a bit easy so far. We had a cracking start aided I think by the fact that our learning curve wasn’t as steep as some crews, and we were off. To be fair we maintained a very competitive pace and it wasn’t too difficult. Yes, we had the nights when got knocked off our seats and the sweltering days rowing through treacle but we took them in our stride.

The World record changed to the British record, but were always records. Getting to the trade winds latitude and finding them non existent has been our biggest test so far and at the moment we don’t think we have come up trumps. We plodded along, hoping they will fill in where other crews have obviously just been there and are making good miles. We’ve now got to do the same, the trade winds may never fill in!

We want that British record and we’ve got to go and get it. This isn’t a record breaking year because of the unusual weather. The 12 man crew didn’t make their speed record but Charlie did make his and we have got to give ours our absolute all and funnily enough since our talking to we have posted a much more respectable set of figures on the website.

We have been rowing at a steady, maintainable pace, after all we have to do it 12 hours a day for 70 plus days but we have upped the pace now. We have no idea if we can maintain it but we won’t know if we don’t try. And I would rather arrive in Antigua, physically broken but mentally knowing I could not have done more than physically ok but have to mentally deal with the fact that I had missed out on the record because I didn’t given it absolutely everything.

We have done the figures we know how many miles a day we have to do – 40 and what speed that requires. We now have to show what we are made of. Watch this space……..

Atlantic Rowing Race: Blog 42

February 23rd, 2010

Annie’s Blog – Monday 22nd February 2010: The Doldrums

Well this is not what it said in the sales pitch of ocean rowing I can tell you. – “Once you get south enough and start heading west towards Antigua, your pick up the trade winds and be zooming along at 25 knots“.

Erm well we’re here, so where are these allusive trade winds? Woodhousen described the sea as “a big watery desert” and Pete the skipper of Ocean Planet our support yacht says in all his years of sailing (and judging by the look of him, that quite a lot) he has never seen this part of the Atlantic so calm. Well that’s just great. This calm is predicted to stay with us for practically a week, and who knows after that. We are managing to get 2 knots out of Explore at best but only with the non-existent wind behind us. We might as well be trying to row through freeze dried porridge! And the temperatures are scorching, and with no wind to cool us down we are slowly being spit roasted here.

We have done all we can to think of how to boost our progress from redistributing the weight in the hatches, to rowing with a longer lighter set of oars more suitable to these conditions.

Mentally though we are fairly positive and determined to make the best of what we’ve got even though we do have a few crews overtaking us, which is not good but they are young-ish male pairs and to be honest they should overtake us and if they didn’t over take two old broads like us they ought to be d be ashamed of themselves!

Anyway all this plodding gives you a lot of time to reflect and concentrate on other things, such as pain in Mel’s case – she most definitely wins the biggest pain in the arse award. Mine is fairing considerably well, no doubt in thanks to Margaret and Maureen. A peeling nose is my biggest complaint at the moment, so life is pretty good it has to be said.

Obviously these arduous conditions seriously threaten our UK record attempt, but if we can still bag the UK record at the end of all of this we should be jolly proud of ourselves.

We celebrated 1000 miles to go a couple of days ago with some miniature bottles of champagne. Once the lovely contents were consumed (which took approx 30 seconds) I wrote a message and threw mine overboard. What’s the betting that bottle gets to Antigua before us?

Annie xx

Climbing Kilimanjaro: Blog 1

February 22nd, 2010

Our very own Tim Hornby (who works for us in IT Support and helps us out when our computers go wrong) has just found out that he is to climb Mount Kilimanjaro this year! He will be taking part in our Shira Trek and has agreed to keep a blog of his preparation and the climb itself and will update us about once a month until the climb at the end of September 2010. (I am currently also trying to encourage him to take a blackberry or iphone up there so he can send us live up-dates during the climb…)

This is the first in Tim’s series of blogs, oh and here is a photo of the cheeky chappy…

Tim_pic_forweb

Tim Hornby: February, 2010

Wow. Kilimanjaro. Wow.

I don’t like to make a mountain out of a mole hill, so to speak, but Kilimanjaro is a pretty big deal. I still can’t quite believe that in just a little over seven months I’ll be getting a shot at climbing the summit of this monster. Is it the highest mountain in the world? Well, no. But is it the single toughest mental and physical challenge I will have ever faced in my life? Erm, no again actually, it’ll be the second (there was the time I stupidly took on a five kilometre fun-run with a terrible hangover dressed as Santa, but I’m expecting Kili to be somewhat more enjoyable than that). Am I looking forward to it, a little anxious and very excited? Definitely, yes. Oh yes indeed.

What now, though? I’ve got seven months to prepare, but I don’t even know what to prepare for to be honest. I love trekking and I’ve got some pretty worn boots that have accompanied me to some pretty amazing locations around the world, but I’ve got a feeling they may be a little too worn now. New boots will have to go on the list and I’ll have to sort that out soon to give myself the chance to get them properly worn-in. I can’t think of any other equipment that I’d have to acquire this far out from the departure; it’s not like you have to wear-in your sleeping bag or socks (or do you?).

It’s lucky that I work here at Explore: even in the IT department we get influenced by the travel vibe and experience around the office (and there’s a lot of experience here). It’s great when I mention to my work pals, while waiting for the kettle to boil for a cuppa, that I’m setting off to Tanzania – in a continent I’ve never ventured to before – to attempt the summit of Kilimanjaro. I’m not even surprised when my esteemed colleagues just smile because they know I’ll be up for the challenge (I think that’s why they grin), rather than gasp and look at me in awe as I would hope and expect my Grandmother, for example, to do. There are ex-tour leaders working in the office who have done this numerous times before, but that doesn’t detract from the excitement and potential pride I feel about doing this, instead I’ll pick their brains and put their experience (and equipment, perhaps?) to good use. For example, I didn’t know that there seems to be very little correlation between your level of fitness and whether you’ll be struck down by altitude sickness. (Perhaps I can go and get that kebab tonight after all!)

It’s early days yet: I’ve not long known that I would be going on this trip, so I haven’t even read the dossier for it yet – big mistake really as I don’t know the specifics of what I’ve let myself in for! This would be a big “no-no” if I didn’t have sadistic (here’s hoping they don’t read this) managers who think I may be capable of it and know the itineraries inside out. What I do know is that I will need to get some equipment that I don’t currently have (such as the aforementioned non-worn walking boots), I will need to be in pretty good physical shape and that the potential altitude sickness may not allow me to make it to the top, regardless of the quality of equipment or whether I manage to develop a six-pack (unlikely) before the end of September.

The trip appears to have come up at the right time for me. I’m soon to be 28 (so perhaps old enough to be [marginally] wise and young enough to get [mildly] fit) and I was already entered into a half-marathon for the end of March and have been working pretty hard to get my fitness levels up because of that. Unfortunately I usually utilise my gym membership for a few months, then lose interest again and stop going, slowly turning back to my terrible (yet terribly enjoyable) habits of drinking, smoking and eating too much and not doing an ounce of exercise. My “Grand Plan” to battle this is to enter myself into several different events over the coming months to force my hand with keeping fit. Perhaps this is overkill; I don’t think it’s necessary for you to be able to complete a triathlon to climb Kili, but at least this way I know I’ll have one out of three (equipment, fitness and altitude sickness) licked by the time I fly to Africa. With that in mind, there’s an internal email going around Explore at the moment asking if anyone’s interested in a place on the South Downs 100KM walk in 30 hours in July. Sounds like a perfect stepping-stone to me…

More updates to follow as the days and weeks go by, so check back  for updates on how I’m getting on with preparations for my most anticipated trip of my life so far!

Tim

Atlantic Rowing Race: Blog 41

February 22nd, 2010

Mel – Fri 19th February. Getting to the ‘bottom’ of it…

So we’re in 12th   which is disappointing and isn’t ideal for us but is indicative of the battle that has emerged between Explore and two or three other boats. Ocean Summit (from the West Country) and Reason Why, (also from Bristol) and ourselves have been trading places and I find it unbelievable that after 45 days rowing the race is so close and that there are just 2 or 3 miles between us. But it does tend to focus the mind and makes it more exciting for us and everyone following us back home.

We have been off the pace last couple of days, but we’re not really sure why. It’s easy to plod along averaging 1.5 knots without really analysing what your doing. But I have become obsessed with what the other crews are up to. Some are performing similar to us but a lot are doing a lot better: we were one of the top performers but are now very much near the bottom.

So we have been asking questions of ourselves and the boat trying to figure out where it’s going wrong. We think there are two main reasons On the bottom front we are both suffering from pressure sores which are extremely painful and caused by sitting and rowing for 12 hours a day. It makes every stroke painful and must be slowing us down as we’re not giving it as much beef because of the pain. Our attitude has been, we just need to get on and do it but we now think that if it’s affecting our performance then we need to do something about it. So the serious painkillers are out and we’re hoping our bottoms get a rest and we can get back on form. It seems to be working so far so we hope it improves our speed. Last night I had an almost pain free row so our mileage should improve. However, we will have to ration the pills as there are not enough to last the rest of the trip. We’ll take them for a couple of days for now as things could get much worse later in the race.

The second thing is that we have retrimmed the boat again. As we eat more and more of our rations, the weight distribution changes, so we’ve moved more from the bow to stern – mostly the endless supplies of freeze-dried food which seems to go on and on. The idea is to keep the bow up and not digging into the water. It immediately feels lighter on each stroke optimising our speed – so we hope in the next 24 hrs we’ll be back on track. At the moment we’re off the British record pace, but are getting close to it again so are pressing hard.

The weather has been good but is predicted to be changeable meaning light and probably from the east. It should affect the northerly boats more and we are south. My decision to stay south might have worked – who knows. Whatever happens I don’t think there will be any 60 mile days in next few days.

The next milestone when we pass the 1000 miles to go mark tomorrow. We’re going to have a big party and get through more Christmas pressies and food. It feels as if it will all be downhill from there although it will still be a few more weeks to go. There is a psychological barrier here though, knowing there are just hundreds of miles to go rather than 1000s

Atlantic Rowing Race: Blog 40

February 18th, 2010

Mel’s Blog  -  Fri 12th – Sunday 14th Feb.

Hello everyone, our new twice a week blogs are back! The laptop is definitely bust so we’re now phoning them through and thanks to Paul at Explore for typing them up. We’ll try to blog each Monday and Thursday.

Slow and painful sums up our progress at the moment: the wind died on Friday and this weekend there has been no breeze and so no swell making it hard to make headway.

The ocean is stunning – completely flat and still, like a lake which is unfortunately no good for rowing – getting just half a knot is hard work and tougher in the heat. The sun is intense and the heat is relentless – there’s no escape.

Our headgear is interesting though – Annie is wearing a red bandana constantly dipped in water and I have a beaten up old panama that’s so out of shape it makes me look like a Flower Pot Man

The pain is both mental and physical – old aches and pains are worse when the boat is heavy. Mental pain is the worst though: every 12 or 18 mile day equals another day at sea for us if you take 50 miles as an average day. The British record is always in our minds and we’re desperate to break it. We like it out here but the thought of hitting Antigua in record time drives us on. 12 mile days don’t help the cause!

The scenery is amazing. We have seen some fantastic sunsets with 360 degree horizons of oranges, yellows, pinks and purple – just breathtaking.

Phosphorescence has also been incredible. I was rowing on Friday and the puddle around the blade glowed bright yellow – like glow stick bright. The light fanned out and faded and then the droplets coming off the spoon set of more sparks making it look like it was dripping off the blade. It is truly beautiful and I spent a full hour transfixed by it – which seems slightly excessive but it took my mind off the slow pace and the fact that no matter how hard I rowed I couldn’t achieve more than half a knot.

We’ve been up and down leader board so much we don’t know if we should be eating Xmas cake or shepherd’s pie! It’s weird that after 40 or so days of rowing we’re still only a single figure miles apart from the other competitors. Being 9th one day 13th the next is good for motivation though, if we’re fighting to overtake someone or someone else is snapping at our heels. We’re desperate to put the miles behind us – if only the wind would cooperate.

Despite the pains and gripes we’re both fit and well and in fine form. On Friday we were the fastest boat over 6 hours. We can’t wait to punch out 60 mile days again and get to Antigua.

Mel.

We are tracking Annie and Mel’s progress and posting more of their blogs here. Keep up to date and find out why we are supporting therm here. Track their progress across the Atlantic here.

Uganda – Gorilla & Chimp Safari

February 16th, 2010

Paul, our PR & Partnerships Manager recently went on the Ugandan ‘Gorilla & Chimp Safari‘. Find out what it was like to come face to face with a huge silverback!

Paul Bondsfield – Explore

Uganda is one of those countries that cause people to look at you askance when you tell them where you’re going. But, despite its obvious challenges – infrastructure, pollution, poverty – it’s a stunning place to visit and, (cliché warning) the people are some of the friendliest I’ve come across.

The city of Kampala, the country’s capital, is dirty, sprawling and there’s not a lot to keep the traveller within its crowded streets. There is a certain chaotic colour and atmosphere here though; that feeling that you are most certainly in an African country and most certainly not anywhere else. The only potential place of interest to visit is the Museum, which has an interesting musical display apparently – I say apparently as I didn’t go there myself.

Canoeing

Head out of the city though, and a world of stunning scenery opens up. From the marshlands on Lake Victoria near Kampala, to Jinja where the source of the Nile is to be found (I swam from Lake Victoria’s warm waters into the Nile itself  something that should be on everyone’s 100 Things To Do Before” lists) along with some great white water rafting or canoeing on the Lake. I was travelling with an Explore group and we decided to experience a “sundowner”, which meant paddling out onto the lake, tying our canoes together and then drinking cold gins and beers while watching the sun set over the jungle surrounding the lake, always a fairly rapid affair this close to the equator, but what a beautiful way to end the day.

Equator

On the west side of the country, the national parks provide glimpses of what could be. From Murchison in the north to Bwindi in the south, all benefit from a seemingly enlightened government attitude to conservation. Wildlife isn’t hugely plentiful in Uganda, but populations are recovering rapidly so it’s a good time to go, with relatively few tourists just yet. We saw a good selection, including elephant, buffalo, zebra, antelope, crocs, hippos and a wide variety of birdlife, including the oddest I’ve ever seen – the shoebill, (looks like a cross between a pterodactyl and a dodo).

shoebill

buffalo

Queen Elizabeth NP is beautiful. Part of the Great Rift Valley, it was the real deal; Africa like you see in the movies, with tall yellow grasses, flat-topped acacia trees and purple mountains in the background. Very cool. We stayed in the beautiful Mweya Safari Lodge which sits on top of an escarpment overlooking Lake Edward, home of hippo, crocs and other assorted wildlife.

Lodge in Uganda

If you want to see chimps in the wild, head into the Chambara Gorge. It’s quite humid and stuffy down there, but the rangers are pretty clued up on where the troop is likely to be. It’s quite an exciting trek too, following trails along the ground and the echoing calls up in the canopy until you come, at last, to the animals themselves. The alpha-males are a lot bigger than you’d think, but obviously used to visitors, so you can get pretty close. You’ll need to organize the visit with the rangers, but it’s a good curtain-raiser on the main event in Uganda, the mountain gorillas.

Chimpanzee in Uganda

Beautiful waterfalls

Down in the Bwindi NP, in small groups of no more than 8, we spent a reasonably tough 3 hours of trekking to find the large family group we were searching for. You can find them much quicker than that (another group walked for just a carefully stage managed 20 minutes – the rangers want to give everyone the best experience possible) or it can take many more hours before you get a glimpse.

Silverback Gorilla

First we came across was the silverback, and despite whatever you read or see on TV, nothing can prepare you for the sheer powerful presence of this animal. He is the boss and he leaves you in no doubt about that fact.

On my trip the family was feeding on the slippery slopes of a wide gully, so getting a foothold wasn’t the easiest, but even so the allotted hour came to end sooner than anyone wanted. The family numbered 25, the guide reckoned they would soon split into two smaller groups, so there was plenty to see and the shutters kept clicking the whole time we were there.

Gorilla Uganda

The earthy smell of them, the scent of wet undergrowth, the sounds of strange birds in the trees and the occasional grunts from the adults are memories that will remain.
The overriding memory though will be when a mother, with baby firmly clutched to her chest, casually sauntered by, so close to me that she brushed my leg. And, although the video from another group member is unclear on the subject, I will swear to my dying day that she looked up at me as she went by and contact was made. Looking into the eyes of one of these animals really can be a life-changing moment – you witness us, as we once were, or maybe as we are now.

Be prepared for long road journeys in Uganda and along many un-made roads too. It’s easy to say that driving along red, hot, dusty roads adds to the whole African experience, but that’s really only for the first hour or so. After that, it’s just hot and dusty – although companies such as Explore will often break up the longer journeys to make it all a little more manageable. This is a country that could be on the cusp of a tourism boom, so a good time to get in now before the crowds.

Paul travelled on Explore’s Gorilla & Chimp Safari in Uganda. We also offer gorilla safari in Rwanda and a combined game and gorilla safari across East Africa.