Gill is one of our facebook regulars and sent us this amazing day by day blog of the Highlights of Turkey trip she did earlier this year…

Day 1
Superb flight on wide-bodied plane to Istanbul. Some confusion getting through terminal as a “transit” passenger but linked up with several older gentlemen going walking in Cappadocia and we caught our domestic flight to Ankara. Amused at notice requesting passengers do not sit their animals on the toilet!

Met Group, Ilhan, tour leader and Kamel, driver at Ankara; surprised there are only six of us, all older (but not old!), 2 couples plus 2 lone travellers. First meeting held in hotel but all too tired to go out for a meal – we were well-fed on both flights!

Day 2
Early start with visit to the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations in Ankara. This was an ideal introduction to the sites we were to visit and put the whole tour in context. Onwards to the amazing landscapes of Cappadocia where, after a visit to the underground city of Kaymaki, we arrived at our cave hotel.

Spelunca Hotel, Goreme
 

Day 3
A magical day!  Began with an early-morning hot air balloon ride over the unique Cappadocian rock formations; not only did the balloon travel horizontally, we brushed the wild flowers and soared up high over the fairy chimneys.

Balloon ride
 

After a simple Turkish breakfast, it was off to Goreme Open Air Museum to explore early Christian churches carved out of the rock followed by a walk through Red Rose Valley.  After lunch we toured more outlandish rock formations before climbing high up inside the remains of the 13th century castle in Urgup. 
Early evening we descended into a deep cave to watch a Whirling Dervish Sema. This solemn religious ceremony incorporates chanting, religious music, prayers and the twirling which the Mevlevi order are famous for. 
 

Fairy chimneys

Our evening meal was taken in yet another cave, where my friends from the airport were also dining – they ceremoniously presented me with a rose – a wonderful end to a truly magical day!

Rose Valley

Day 4
En-route to Konya, we visited the well-preserved 13th century caravanserai of Sultanhani, a resting place for travellers on the Silk Road.  After a traditional lunch in Konya, we explored the museum, formally the headquarters of the Mevlei order before an unscheduled visit to the large city mosque followed by “special” baklava and ice cream.  Still full after our snack(!), we took our evening meal in a simple workman’s café specialising in lamb donor kebab.

Day 5
Our long journey over the Anatolian plateau was full of surprises; fields of storks, opium poppies and a flying display by the Turkish All Stars The latter kept us amused for many miles as the eight fighter planes practised their intricate moves blazing trails of red, white and blue vapour. 

Opium poppies

We picnicked on a shady riverbank before gazing in wonder at the Roman theatre of Aspendos, still used for productions today and admiring the Roman aqueduct used for supplying fresh drinking water to the ancient city.  Tonight’s stop at the Mediterra Art Hotel set down a narrow street in the old city part of Antalya took some finding but our trusty driver did us proud!

Aspendos Theatre

Day 6
A lunchtime picnic among the ruins of Phasellis, with time for a swim!  Established as a harbour city in around 690 BC, Ilhan gave us a fascinating tour of the ancient streets and ruins.  Time to explore Antalya before dinner in a sheltered square.
 

Day 7
Today we explored the mountain city of Termessos.  Set in Gullug Dag National Park, renowned for it’s insect life, lynx and brown bears, it was a steep climb to the ruined theatre atop the mountain.  
En route to Dalyan, we visited the village of Kayakoyu deserted since the population exchange of Greeks and Turks in the 1920’s.  The setting for the book “Birds without Wings” by Louis de Bernieres, it is now a World Heritage Site.  Tonight we dined at our hotel overlooking the Lycian rock tombs at Dalyan.

Kayakoyu

Day 8
Ilhan chartered a riverboat to take us through the reeds to the ancient ruins of Caunos dating back to 4000 BC.  Rejoining our boat, we sailed up to the mouth of the river, a breeding beach for loggerhead turtles.  After a swim, we rejoined our boat to sail to a newly opened restaurant before returning to Dalyan for an afternoon exploring the weekly market.  Dinner in a traditional café was excellent, the proprietor even fetching us home-made houmous from a friend!
 

Unexpected visitor at Caunos

Day 9
We meandered along rural roads to Pammukale stopping, en-route at what appeared to be a small roadside café – climbing stairs at the side, we found ourselves in attractive water gardens packed with local Turkish families out for their Sunday lunch.
 

The white travertine terraces of Pammukale can be seen some distance away and these, together with the ancient ruins of Hieropolis, made for an interesting afternoon walk. 

Pammukale    

 Hieropolis

Day 10
A fairly long drive today to Selcuk where we will spend two nights.  The site of Aphrodiasis proved fascinating, being an important artistic centre and supporting a training school for Carian sculptors.  The spacious museum held many examples of statuary by established and trainee sculptors.

Aphrodite’s Temple

Our Selcuk hotel is small and family-run, dinner on the roof terrace restaurant had us all gasping with the views of storks zooming overhead.
     

Stork’s nest, Selcuk

Day 11
Our small group of six with our excellent guide seems a luxury when we encounter the huge coach parties visiting Ephesus.  Ilhan never hurries us and is an excellent historian only to happy to answer our questions.  Early summer’s an ideal time for a poppy lover like myself as there were masses among the ancient ruins. 

The Library at Ephesus

Wild poppies

Lunch today was taken at a Kurdish family café where we watched flat loaves being baked and hot bread just kept coming and coming….an excellent meal, followed by a shopping spree for the three ladies in our group!
 

Tonight we visited another village de-populated when the Greeks returned to their native land.  This time, however, Turkish families colonised the steep twisty lanes and today it operates as a craft bazaar with cafes. 
      

Day 12
A long drive broken up with two interesting visits. Up a narrow twisting road to the remains of Pergamum, where parchment was invented.  The library here was the second largest of the Roman world.  The theatre here was set on a steep hillside and proved quite a frightening descent – thanks for your helping hands, boys!!
An imaginative mock-up of the Wooden Horse greeted our arrival at the ancient site of Troy.  Comprising of nine ancient cities, each built atop the last, the ruins date back 5,000 years. 

The Wooden Horse of Troy

Not much time to see the town of Cannakale, arriving just in time for dinner at a harbourside fish restaurant and with an early start scheduled the following day
 
Day 13
Catching the 7 am ferryboat, we crossed the Dardanelle Straits before touring the battle sites of Gallipoli.  A long drive to Istanbul was enlivened by a visit to a service –café that had  it’s own zoo! 
Dropping off our cases at our central Istanbul hotel, we said a fond farewell to our excellent driver, Kamel – whom we shall ever remember for making a flapjack into a sandwich filling!
Ilhan walked us to the Grand Bazaar arranging to meet us later for dinner.  A spontaneous group decision was made to stick together both for safety and to ensure none of us became lost! 
 

We ate an excellent traditional dinner down a small side-street that none of us could have found without Ilhan’s help.

Colourful hats, hookah pipes and dishes in the Grand Bazaar

Day 14
A leisurely and more varied breakfast today before a foot tour of the famous Istanbul sites.  We marvelled at the Blue Mosque (though disapproved of tourists who showed such lack of respect that they refused to cover their heads/shoulders) wandered through Topkapi Palace particularly admiring the highly decorated rooms of the Harem and visited Haghia Sophia, now a museum.

Blue Mosque

Hagia Sophia  

Harem, Topkapi

Instead of the scheduled free-time, Ilhan took us on an extra special tour to show us the “backstreets of Istanbul”.  We walked what seemed miles, seeing Turkish traditional shopping areas, visiting a genuine spice market, tasting Turkish Delight in an old established emporium before calling in at the Turkish Railway Museum. 

Fish stall

We took a ferryboat across the Bosphorus, admired the interior of an Armenian Church, took Turkish tea, coffee and home-made lemonade at a café that only sold these drinks, wandered the streets and returned across the Bosphorus.  Squashing into a Taxi-dolmus we admired street performers in Taxsim Square before walking down steep streets towards the Gallata Tower.  Our final dinner was taken at a fish restaurant under the Gallata Bridge watching the sunset over the Golden Horn before a final tram ride back to our hotel.
         
Day 15
A paper bag of Raki (Aniseed) balls as well as a thank-you envelope awaited Ilhan at our final breakfast!  Waving us off at the airport, we all agreed that we’d been very lucky to have such a knowledgeable and affable young guide. 
We’d eaten all our meals together as a group with Ilhan and Kamel, socialised together and stayed as a group until we were dispersed throughout the plane home.  I’m sure we’ll keep in touch and have already exchanged messages and photos.  I went on holiday alone, but not for long, as one of the group soon pointed out, I was really holidaying with friends!!

Eating together in Istanbul

One of groups that travelled out to Chile almost 2 weeks ago, accompanied by our expert astronomer, Francisco Diego, also had a very successful visit the Very Large Telescope (VLT) at Paranal in the Atacama Desert. Run by the European Organisation for Astronomical Research in the Southern Hemisphere (ESO), visits to the observatory are normally strictly controlled and so the fascinating visit by our group was a real privilege and thoroughly enjoyed by everyone. One of our other groups, accompanied by expert Andy Green, is due to visit the VLT next week.

Exclusive News from the ground

We’ve now received an emotional and moving report from Gabriel Barok, the local organiser of these great tours to Easter Island to view the total solar eclipse.

Explore group on Easter Island

As he safely sees our groups to Easter Island’s airport for the long flight over the Pacific Ocean back to Santiago in Chile, he reflects on some of the most memorable few days of his life.

Gabriel flew out to Easter Island two weeks before the eclipse to ensure that everything was going to be just right for our groups. He spent his days on a reconnoitre of possible eclipse viewing sites and in the days leading up to the eclipse Gabriel, along with our expert astronomer, Francisco Diego, visited the local meteorologist to learn about cloud behaviour on Easter Island. In fact, so dedicated were they to their cause that they often visited the meteorologist as many as 5 times on the same day!

After two days of fierce storms, the sky cleared on the day of the eclipse and Gabriel and Francisco decided to take the group to the quiet seclusion of Rano Kau volcano, a place that their exhaustive research had shown would provide an ideal eclipse viewing location.

Gabriel describes the moment, ‘We divided the groups, Francisco took one group along with the delicate telescopic equipment and I guided 24 trekkers to the top of the volcano to arrive 10 minutes before the darkest border of the moon touched the most clearest sun; thanks to the Explore eclipse sunglasses we could enjoy the most wonderful feast of a never seen dying light and growing deep emotion. At 14.08 came the most spectacular and unexpected performance of nature: a deep dark blue sky with the darkest black hole and a crown of flames surrounding it. Sighs, tears and shouts all along the hill of the famous mythological crater behind us sculpted an eternal moment, for ever.’

After the eclipse our groups returned to Rapa Nui, the island’s capital, where they enjoyed a local curanto feast followed by dancing and music. The spirit of the eclipse, Mother Nature and the music all came together and the group danced into the night.

When is the next total solar eclipse?

For those of you who weren’t able to make the journey to Easter Island, or who made the trip and have a yearning for more, then the next total solar eclipse will be in Australia in November 2012. Keep an eye on our website in the autumn for a chance to book Explore’s trips to Australia to view the next total solar eclipse.

It is now under 2 months until Tim, Lucy, Jo and me walk 100 kilometres across the South Downs.

When I first agreed to take on this challenge I thought: “100 kilometres? Pah, no problem, that’s just walking 1 kilometre over and over again. That’ll be no problem. Anyway, it’s on the South Downs, so it’ll be downhill from Petersfield to the coast.”

I was wrong on every point.

So far the longest walk we have done as a team is about 35 kilometres. The first 10 kilometres really is just like walking 1 kilometre over and over again. After that your body starts to object.

At 20 kilometres your body starts to REALLY object. At 30 kilometres my body was (quite literally) starting to fail. A muscle that I don’t think I have ever used before (on the back of my thigh) intermittently started going into spasm. Other members of the team found hips seizing. Lips were (I’m not exaggerating) a shade of blue due to the cold. And I wont go into the gruesome details of the ruptured blisters on feet.

So, I am now not even contemplating the pain we will have to go through at 50 kilometres, 70 kilometres…

As for the South ‘Downs’? Presumably this is a name given by some marketing board so that it doesn’t deter ramblers from walking there. Really they are the South Ups. You start by walking up a steep incline – and you admire the views across the beautiful countryside. And you think – this is fine, nice level walk to the coast.

No.

Actually you walk off the top of the nice beautiful ridge, into a valley. And then, you walk up the next hill that appears to be vertical. Those hills that have the decency to be only a ‘steep’ gradient go on for miles and miles. Until you become convinced that at some stage someone will come along and tell you that you should have oxygen to walk at this altitude.

The day after training walks, it is difficult to move. Knees ache from the impact of walking downhill. Walking at all is a chore, walking at pace is impossible. I have had blisters on my feet constantly for the past 8 weeks.

I hope I’ve made our training sound like a real sob story. Of course, it isn’t. Because, I’m choosing to do this walk, and after each training session, I get in a car and drive home. I get a glass of water from the tap. I put some Compeed on my blisters. I have a hot bath to soothe my aches. If my thigh muscle doesn’t get better – I’ll drive to the doctor and be seen that day.

When someone in Africa walks miles to get water, they don’t get in a car to go home. They carry that water miles home. If their feet are blistered the wounds go untreated. If they need a doctor? There may not be a doctor for them to see.

This is why we are doing the walk, to raise money for a charity that helps people like this all around the world. They provide services where they are needed. Clean water to refugees in Uganda. Providing shelter and sanitation to those affected by the cyclone in 2008 in Burma. Helping impoverished farmers in Mexico get a fair price for their crop.

Please give whatever you can afford.

Sponsor us

This isn’t about the terrifying/stupid (delete as appropriate) walk we are doing. This is about supporting people around the world who need our help. People who don’t have the luxury to train for walks at the weekend.

Read more about the team’s walk on the Explore website

Sounds like four very different holidays doesn’t it? Well it’s not, it’s just one! Explore’s Michelle Bird was lucky enough to experience all of the above and more when she travelled on Kasbah Capers, a week-long trip to Morocco. Here are a few of her trip highlights…

We arrived in Morocco late in the evening and headed straight for our hotel just off the famous Djemma el Fna in Marrakech. We were immediately immersed in the sights, sounds, colours and smells of the busy square, suddenly a world away from the UK shores we’d left just a few hours earlier. We weren’t in Marrakech long so didn’t have a chance to explore, but we would be back to fully experience it before the week was out!

Bustling Marrakech

The next day was an early start as we were off on a day-long drive across some stunning Moroccan scenery. We traversed the Tizi and Tichka Pass – the highest vehicular pass in Morocco – and as we journeyed through the Atlas Mountains we stopped off along the way to meet locals and explore an ancient Kasbah which is still home to Moroccans today.

Tamnougalt Kasbah

The whole group were amazed at how quickly the scenery outside our vehicles changed as we drove; we passed through barren land which suddenly erupted into a lush oasis again and again.

Arriving at our destination of Zagora – the ‘Gateway to the Sahara’ – it was an early night for us, recharging our batteries ready for exploring the town and the surrounding areas the next day.

The following day was a highlight for many in the group as we really got to the heart of the area. It started with a guided walk through a beautiful palmery, where dates were blossoming on the palm trees. We wandered from dusty streets, through oases, into desolate landscapes and finally into a small village where we watched silver jewellery being made before having the opportunity to make purchases. After a picnic lunch picked up from the local market we headed out into the desert for a camel ride across the dunes, before we climbed one of the highest to watch the sunset – a beautiful end to a relaxing but packed day.

Riding camels across the dunes

After our time spent in the desert we were ready to head up to our mountain hideaway, a Berber village called Tagoudiche. We walked the last part of the journey to the village and as we were making our way up, we couldn’t believe that we were actually approaching a village, everything seemed so quiet and uninhabited but, suddenly, as we crested a peak, there it was spread out in front of us.

The Berber people of Tagoudiche were some of the friendliest I have ever encountered, welcoming us into their lives and homes. Our hosts were a married couple who looked after us well. On our second day in the village a few members of the group went trekking to Jebel Lekst, a nearby mountain peak, while the rest of us took a tour of the area surrounding the village, finishing with mint tea and henna tattoos in our hosts’ home.

Mint tea with our host and her family

I can’t mention the couple of days we spent in Tagoudiche without talking about the food! The breakfasts, lunches and dinners our tour leader, Aziz, and our local hosts prepared for us using very basic facilities were by far the tastiest we had on our trip. The meals they rustled up were so delicious and consisted of full three course meals in the evenings with more fresh fruit and salad than you could wish for! The whole group could have happily eaten food prepared by them throughout the entire holiday!

Early morning descent from Tagoudiche village

After a couple of days relaxing in the mountains, it was onto the pretty harbour town of Essaouira, where we stayed in the heart of the city walls. With an afternoon free to explore, some of us chose to have a wander round the streets, where there was plenty of shopping to be done but less of the ‘hard sell’ than you’d expect in Marrakech – it was all very relaxed. We then headed for the harbour where fishing boats were coming in and fish was being bought and sold. We decided to climb up the fort ramparts for a great view over the town and beach and afterwards we picked up a bit of lunch which we took down to the beach to watch the sunset over the harbour.

Sunset over Essaouira harbour

There was a little time for a bit more souvenir shopping before a group meal in a delicious seafood restaurant we’d never have found ourselves – this is where Aziz’s amazing local knowledge came in very handy! As we ate we reflected on how each day of the trip had been totally different from the one before it and what a revelation it had been. None of us expected the sheer diversity we’d experienced in one country (and we hadn’t even fully experienced Marrakech at that point!)

The next day was our last and we headed back to Marrakech to explore the city. A local guide took us on a walking tour, taking in the Mosque, Jewish quarter, Bahia Palace, the souks and finally the square, before we spent a bit of time exploring on our own. Many of the group tested their haggling skills as they bought souvenirs for friends and family, whether anyone got a bargain we’ll never really know but I do know that everyone had a great time trying!

Shopping in the busy Marrakech souks

That evening we had our final group meal in a lovely rooftop restaurant overlooking the city (another one we’d never have found without Aziz) and took the opportunity to thank Aziz for being such an amazing guide and patiently answering all of our questions about Morocco, its landscape, history and people. Aswell as seeing the country for ourselves, it was invaluable having Aziz with us to give that extra detail and history you can only get from someone who has grown up there.

As a first Explore holiday for me, it was a great introduction to both small group travel and Morocco itself – a country I’m determined to see more of!

Read more about Kasbah Capers, or see what else we have available in Morocco

Here, he describes the highlights of the trek day by day, and we ask him for his tips on completing the trek – as well as getting to the bottom of what the accommodation, facilities, food – and of course the trekking are really like!

Day by day account of the Trek
Day 3: Kathmandu:  Head out for a 3 hour city tour with local guide, visiting Assan Bazaar, Durbur Square and d Kumari. Lots of nice temples, both Hindu and Buddhist, and lots of noise, chaos, fruit & veg and warm meat out on the street. Oh and we can’t forget the odd cow strolling about!

Durbar Square: Kathmandu

Went to traditional Nepalese restaurant for dinner, sit on the floor and eat traditional cuisine, a bit like Tapas with lots of different dishes, lots of curries and tit bits, very nice. Also restaurant has traditional dancers and music going on throughout. Nice touch.

Day 4: Fly to Lukla: We board a tiny 15 seater propeller driven plane for the most amazing flight of my life! Lukla airport is something special. It is a tiny runway clinging to the side of a mountain at 2800 metres, very hairy!

Coming in to land at Lukla

Start 3 hour walk to Phakding, going from 2800m to 2500. Nice acclimatization walk, stunning scenery!

Arrive at Phakding which is a small village, arrive to our tents already up, next to a teahouse. Immediately handed tea and biscuits – I can definitely get use to this!

Day 5: Brought morning tea by Sherpa boy, wake up and have a wash.

Move in to teahouse to have breakfast – muesli eggs and pancakes with tea and coffee.

Set off for walk, the plan is to walk to Namche Bazaar, ascending over 800 metres!

First part fairly flat, stop for lunch at the side of the river. The kitchen boys had ran ahead of us and knocked up a 3 course lunch by the time we got there! Curry, japati’s and vegetables. Prepare ourselves for the ascent up Namche Hill.

Hit Namche Hill and climb a steep uphill for about 3 and half hours. Hard graft, time to crack out the poles and the energy bars!

Namche Bazaar: The town clings to the side of the mountain

Arrive at Namche, which is the heart of the Sherpa community, with a population of about 700 people, with a pub and internet café! Time for a stroll around and buy some more strange novelty gifts.

Day 6: Walk to a view point where we can see Everest for the first time!

Everest in the distace (left-most peak)

Day 7: Climb to 3,800 m, visit Thangbouche monastery Get unpacked and find out we have stunning views of Everest at sunset – I get a little snap happy!

Thangbouche Monastery

Day 8: After waking up feeling unwell, I started to walk and found the up-hills a real struggle. The tour leader recommended that myself and one other member of the group stay in Pangbouche (looked after by one of the Sherpas) for extra acclimatisation and to get our strength back. We check into a basic but very comfortable teahouse for the night.

Day 9: After a great nights sleep, the Sherpas (who are all in radio contact with one-another) arrange for our bags to be taken on to where the rest of the group is – Dingbouche. With help from our Sherpa (who gallantly carries our bags) and taking it VERY slowly, we arrive at Dingbouche and catch up with the rest of the group, really good to see everyone again, and everyone really happy we made it.

Day 10:  Walk from Dingbouche to Lebouche Arrive at field of dreams after a steep 300 metre climb. Field of dreams is a large memorial site to both Sherpa’s and expeditions that have died trying to conquer Everest and other mountains. Very moving. It is starting to get really cold so break out the thermals when I get into my tent!

Field of Dreams

Day 11:  Ascent of Kala Pattar – After an incredibly difficult climb, I arrive huffing and puffing to the summit of Kala Patter. I’m absolutely shattered, but it is the most euphoric moment, and words can’t describe how fantastic the views are. Everybody makes it to the top! The group’s resolve and determination is fantastic. We have some tea at the top and take plenty of pictures and take in the views. We are so lucky as there is not a cloud in the sky!

Me at the top of Kala Pattar with Everest over my right shoulder

Days 12-16: is spent descending to Lukla and returning to Kathmandu where we have some time to relax, take a bath, chill out by the pool and do a spot of shopping.

Day 17:  We visit the Hindu temples and medieval Bhaktapur. Then its time to go out for our last meal together, the ‘last supper’ if you will. We go to a great bar, where every group gets a cardboard foot, where you can write about your adventures and put it on the wall, along with others. Edmund Hillary has a foot there, along with a lot of other famous summiteers.

Bhaktapur

What one piece of advice would I give to everyone doing this trip?
Take it slowly. It isn’t a race and the trek guides and Sherpa have everything under control. Going slowly helps your body to acclimatise and increases your chances of success. Also, make sure you are physically fit enough to be able to walk uphill for several hours at a time. (oh – and make sure your walking boots are well worn in!).

What was the accommodation like?
We spent two nights at Hotel Malla in Kathmandu at the beginning of the tour, and a further two nights at the end (bliss!). It was a very nice 4* with a great central location. During the trek, our tents were set up for us by the great crew. Thermarests were provided for sleeping on, and we ate in either an adjacent teahouse or a dining tent. We had fixed long drop toilet or toilet tent facilities at each camp, and at some locations we were able to use the teahouse washing and toilet facilities. Otherwise, we were brought hot water in the morning for washing.

Campsite at Thangbouche

What was the food like?
Incredible! The food in the traditional Nepalese restaurant in Kathmandu was lovely, but the food on trek was amazing – I don’t know how they manage it!.

Breakfast usually consisted of Muesli/ cereal and toast, and sometimes eggs and pancakes!
At lunchtimes, the crew went on ahead and prepared a 3 course meal which consisted of things like curries, pasta, japatis, salads and vegetables – in the wilderness!
Dinners were things like pasta dishes (great for replenishing energy levels!). The most memorable was spag bol with water buffalo meat. Very tasty!

What was the trekking like?
I had done a couple of walking holidays in Europe (Mont Blanc & Canary Islands), so knew that I would be in safe hands with Explore in Nepal. However, I was blown away by the team work of the crew in Nepal, the friendliness of the Sherpas – one of whom invited us into his home, and how they coped so easily when things didn’t go according to plan. (That kind of confidence can only come from experience I think!). They did everything they could to make sure that the whole group arrived at the top of Kala Pattar, in one piece and with huge smiles on our faces. The trekking itself was obviously demanding, and we all suffered with the altitude to varying degrees, but the experience of the crew helped make sure we all achieved what we came here to do.

The whole group made it to the top of Kala Pattar – an amazing feeling!

Chris did our Everest Base Camp trip. If you are feeling inspired to Trek in Nepal, why not take a look at our Trekking in Nepal page.

This is the first in Tim’s series of blogs, oh and here is a photo of the cheeky chappy…

Tim Hornby: February, 2010

Wow. Kilimanjaro. Wow.

I don’t like to make a mountain out of a mole hill, so to speak, but Kilimanjaro is a pretty big deal. I still can’t quite believe that in just a little over seven months I’ll be getting a shot at climbing the summit of this monster. Is it the highest mountain in the world? Well, no. But is it the single toughest mental and physical challenge I will have ever faced in my life? Erm, no again actually, it’ll be the second (there was the time I stupidly took on a five kilometre fun-run with a terrible hangover dressed as Santa, but I’m expecting Kili to be somewhat more enjoyable than that). Am I looking forward to it, a little anxious and very excited? Definitely, yes. Oh yes indeed.

What now, though? I’ve got seven months to prepare, but I don’t even know what to prepare for to be honest. I love trekking and I’ve got some pretty worn boots that have accompanied me to some pretty amazing locations around the world, but I’ve got a feeling they may be a little too worn now. New boots will have to go on the list and I’ll have to sort that out soon to give myself the chance to get them properly worn-in. I can’t think of any other equipment that I’d have to acquire this far out from the departure; it’s not like you have to wear-in your sleeping bag or socks (or do you?).

It’s lucky that I work here at Explore: even in the IT department we get influenced by the travel vibe and experience around the office (and there’s a lot of experience here). It’s great when I mention to my work pals, while waiting for the kettle to boil for a cuppa, that I’m setting off to Tanzania – in a continent I’ve never ventured to before – to attempt the summit of Kilimanjaro. I’m not even surprised when my esteemed colleagues just smile because they know I’ll be up for the challenge (I think that’s why they grin), rather than gasp and look at me in awe as I would hope and expect my Grandmother, for example, to do. There are ex-tour leaders working in the office who have done this numerous times before, but that doesn’t detract from the excitement and potential pride I feel about doing this, instead I’ll pick their brains and put their experience (and equipment, perhaps?) to good use. For example, I didn’t know that there seems to be very little correlation between your level of fitness and whether you’ll be struck down by altitude sickness. (Perhaps I can go and get that kebab tonight after all!)

It’s early days yet: I’ve not long known that I would be going on this trip, so I haven’t even read the dossier for it yet – big mistake really as I don’t know the specifics of what I’ve let myself in for! This would be a big “no-no” if I didn’t have sadistic (here’s hoping they don’t read this) managers who think I may be capable of it and know the itineraries inside out. What I do know is that I will need to get some equipment that I don’t currently have (such as the aforementioned non-worn walking boots), I will need to be in pretty good physical shape and that the potential altitude sickness may not allow me to make it to the top, regardless of the quality of equipment or whether I manage to develop a six-pack (unlikely) before the end of September.

The trip appears to have come up at the right time for me. I’m soon to be 28 (so perhaps old enough to be [marginally] wise and young enough to get [mildly] fit) and I was already entered into a half-marathon for the end of March and have been working pretty hard to get my fitness levels up because of that. Unfortunately I usually utilise my gym membership for a few months, then lose interest again and stop going, slowly turning back to my terrible (yet terribly enjoyable) habits of drinking, smoking and eating too much and not doing an ounce of exercise. My “Grand Plan” to battle this is to enter myself into several different events over the coming months to force my hand with keeping fit. Perhaps this is overkill; I don’t think it’s necessary for you to be able to complete a triathlon to climb Kili, but at least this way I know I’ll have one out of three (equipment, fitness and altitude sickness) licked by the time I fly to Africa. With that in mind, there’s an internal email going around Explore at the moment asking if anyone’s interested in a place on the South Downs 100KM walk in 30 hours in July. Sounds like a perfect stepping-stone to me…

More updates to follow as the days and weeks go by, so check back  for updates on how I’m getting on with preparations for my most anticipated trip of my life so far!

Tim

Paul Bondsfield – Explore

Uganda is one of those countries that cause people to look at you askance when you tell them where you’re going. But, despite its obvious challenges – infrastructure, pollution, poverty – it’s a stunning place to visit and, (cliché warning) the people are some of the friendliest I’ve come across.

The city of Kampala, the country’s capital, is dirty, sprawling and there’s not a lot to keep the traveller within its crowded streets. There is a certain chaotic colour and atmosphere here though; that feeling that you are most certainly in an African country and most certainly not anywhere else. The only potential place of interest to visit is the Museum, which has an interesting musical display apparently – I say apparently as I didn’t go there myself.

Head out of the city though, and a world of stunning scenery opens up. From the marshlands on Lake Victoria near Kampala, to Jinja where the source of the Nile is to be found (I swam from Lake Victoria’s warm waters into the Nile itself  something that should be on everyone’s 100 Things To Do Before” lists) along with some great white water rafting or canoeing on the Lake. I was travelling with an Explore group and we decided to experience a “sundowner”, which meant paddling out onto the lake, tying our canoes together and then drinking cold gins and beers while watching the sun set over the jungle surrounding the lake, always a fairly rapid affair this close to the equator, but what a beautiful way to end the day.

On the west side of the country, the national parks provide glimpses of what could be. From Murchison in the north to Bwindi in the south, all benefit from a seemingly enlightened government attitude to conservation. Wildlife isn’t hugely plentiful in Uganda, but populations are recovering rapidly so it’s a good time to go, with relatively few tourists just yet. We saw a good selection, including elephant, buffalo, zebra, antelope, crocs, hippos and a wide variety of birdlife, including the oddest I’ve ever seen – the shoebill, (looks like a cross between a pterodactyl and a dodo).

Queen Elizabeth NP is beautiful. Part of the Great Rift Valley, it was the real deal; Africa like you see in the movies, with tall yellow grasses, flat-topped acacia trees and purple mountains in the background. Very cool. We stayed in the beautiful Mweya Safari Lodge which sits on top of an escarpment overlooking Lake Edward, home of hippo, crocs and other assorted wildlife.

If you want to see chimps in the wild, head into the Chambara Gorge. It’s quite humid and stuffy down there, but the rangers are pretty clued up on where the troop is likely to be. It’s quite an exciting trek too, following trails along the ground and the echoing calls up in the canopy until you come, at last, to the animals themselves. The alpha-males are a lot bigger than you’d think, but obviously used to visitors, so you can get pretty close. You’ll need to organize the visit with the rangers, but it’s a good curtain-raiser on the main event in Uganda, the mountain gorillas.

Down in the Bwindi NP, in small groups of no more than 8, we spent a reasonably tough 3 hours of trekking to find the large family group we were searching for. You can find them much quicker than that (another group walked for just a carefully stage managed 20 minutes – the rangers want to give everyone the best experience possible) or it can take many more hours before you get a glimpse.

First we came across was the silverback, and despite whatever you read or see on TV, nothing can prepare you for the sheer powerful presence of this animal. He is the boss and he leaves you in no doubt about that fact.

On my trip the family was feeding on the slippery slopes of a wide gully, so getting a foothold wasn’t the easiest, but even so the allotted hour came to end sooner than anyone wanted. The family numbered 25, the guide reckoned they would soon split into two smaller groups, so there was plenty to see and the shutters kept clicking the whole time we were there.

The earthy smell of them, the scent of wet undergrowth, the sounds of strange birds in the trees and the occasional grunts from the adults are memories that will remain.
The overriding memory though will be when a mother, with baby firmly clutched to her chest, casually sauntered by, so close to me that she brushed my leg. And, although the video from another group member is unclear on the subject, I will swear to my dying day that she looked up at me as she went by and contact was made. Looking into the eyes of one of these animals really can be a life-changing moment – you witness us, as we once were, or maybe as we are now.

Be prepared for long road journeys in Uganda and along many un-made roads too. It’s easy to say that driving along red, hot, dusty roads adds to the whole African experience, but that’s really only for the first hour or so. After that, it’s just hot and dusty – although companies such as Explore will often break up the longer journeys to make it all a little more manageable. This is a country that could be on the cusp of a tourism boom, so a good time to get in now before the crowds.

Paul travelled on Explore’s Gorilla & Chimp Safari in Uganda. We also offer gorilla safari in Rwanda and a combined game and gorilla safari across East Africa.

“WAF! The dogs are barking…ready to take me on the adventure of a lifetime.
I have selected my team and placed the harnesses on them. They are so excited and thrilled to go they just don’t want to waste a second! I step on my sled, hold on steady, release the anchor and I’m off….All of a sudden it is completely silent. I hear nothing apart from the soft panting of the dogs and the runners on the snow.  It takes a few breaths to comprehend the feeling of freedom and exhilaration as I pass the trees beside me and immerse myself in Europe’s last wilderness…

Experience the beautiful wilderness

The first day of our tour is informatory and instructive to learn about a few important details such as how to handle the dogs (so they don’t run off without you!), how to correctly put on their harnesses, very importantly how to use the break and to never let go of your sled (you don’t want to be running after your dogs and sled! Especially, considering they can run even faster than 30 km an hour!).

Learn to dogsled

We all get our teams ready for take off and start our adventure to the lake cabin. We learn to balance on the sleds in the curves and corners, use the breaks when going down hills and through forest trails arrive at luongasjarvi lake. From here you can see the sauna and the lodge where we will be spending a few days.  We stop and unpack but not before we give the doggies a treat and tell them how good they have been!

Improving your dogsledding skills

We make a fire in the sauna and in the cabin to heat things up before a well deserved dinner of reindeer meat is served.  And of course it’s not only a feast for us, the dogs outside get dinner too!

On our second day we are all a little more confident! We pack a day sack and get back on our sleds. Today is devoted to driving around the pretty area and make it to the Torne River which, is the river where the ice blocks for the ice hotel come from. At the end of January the sun is back after not showing herself for 3 weeks. We are lucky with nice weather and enjoy a simple meal and hot wilderness coffee on our homemade fire! When we return by the end of the day to the lake cabin we get a lesson of ice fishing! Super fun when you see the fish through your own drilled ice hole looking at your bait! Hmm fish for dinner anyone?

The sun just peeks above the horizon

Our next day is spent mushing towards our next wilderness cabin, Jakala.
On route we even get the chance to see moose and reindeer. Don’t stop! The moose might have calves which they like to protect… Unlike in Alaska we don’t have bear spray with us! Not to worry, you get to see moose up close and personal in the moose park later on in the week!! Upon arrival at our wilderness cabin we first take care of our dogs, un-harnessing them and getting them settled and even give them a snack before we unpack our own bags and heat up the cabin and sauna. Moose stew is waiting with some mashed potatoes and a nice glass of wine!

Learn about reindeer and Sami culture

Early morning we feed our doggies and scoop up their poop. Checking up their poop is very important! Ahem, I won’t expand on the topic…I’ll let your guide do that for you! Today we get to mush towards a Sami settlement on our last day of mushing! It’s a great day of variable trails, mostly on an easy route, which can however change at any time depending on the weather conditions! We arrive in the afternoon and are greeted by our Sami hosts, Per Nils and Britt Marie. Eager to give us coffee and tell us stories we sit by the fire place and enjoy a homemade Sami dinner, before we have the option for a traditional sauna with a well deserved cold beer!

Bonding with the huskies

We say goodbye to the doggies today and take our last pics with them!
From the Sami settlement, Ovre Sopporo we head towards the exciting Ice Hotel! The hotel is constructed of building blocks of ice and snow taken from the Torne River and decorated by magical ice-art created by artists from around the world. But before heading to Jukkasjarvi to see the Ice Hotel we get to meet Foppa, Tuva, Mooses, Hilma, Tage and Ture at the Moose Park!! We get to learn about these incredible animals from Lars Bjork!

At the Icehotel

A husky safari holiday is something truly special. You learn about yourself, you learn about the dogs and you learn about the wilderness lifestyle! You get the opportunity for one week to have an insight into a world which is so different from the ordinary.  I think it is an absolute MUST of things to do in your lifetime…”

If you would like to join us for a husky safari in Lapland, check out the dates and prices for our Lapland Doglesd Safari.

Tokyo

From the bustling, neon-lit streets to the secluded Shinto shrines and traditional gardens, Tokyo is an extreme contrast of the old and the modern. There is time at the start of the tour to experience some of the many highlights of this fascinating city. First on the checklist has to be the famous fish market in Tsukiji, keep your wits about you in this energetic place as small trucks race around the dimly lit marketplace delivering fresh orders of seafood before giant Tuna fish are auctioned at 5 o’clock in the morning.

Other options include a visit to Harajuku, the fashion capital of Japan with luxury designer stores and small independent boutiques crammed into this popular and lively area. Cross Jingu Bridge to find a peaceful forest area with huge Tori gates that lead to Meiji Jingu Shrine, dedicated to a past Emperor and often the venue for traditional Japanese weddings.

Harajuku Takeshita street

Meiji Jingu shrine

Kamakura
Temporarily leaving Tokyo by rail on an optional trip towards the coast brings us to Kamakura, home to dozens of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples. A definite highlight of this culturally rich city is the Great Buddha, a giant bronze statue that survived a 15th century tsunami and now stands as one of the great icons of Japan.

Travelling on the Bullet Train
Famous for being incredibly fast and punctual, the Bullet Train, or Shinkansen, will be the method of transport for covering most of the miles on this tour. Surprisingly spacious with reclining and swivelling seats, the pleasant time aboard these elite trains is a real highlight of the tour.

Kyoto
Former Capital of Japan and one of the only major cities to escape the tragedies of World War II; Kyoto is one of the best preserved places in Japan. Highlights include taking a guided tour through the Gion district, where trainee Geisha are seen scurrying through the streets dressed in elaborate Kimonos and then have the chance to experience Geisha entertainment first hand – a true cultural experience and a fascinating one at that. There are thousands of temples and shrines to discover in Kyoto, one of the best known being Kinkaku-ji Temple; a stunning ‘Golden Pavilion’ that glistens in the afternoon sun, a stunning sight that is not to be missed.

Hiroshima
An incredible, moving and thought-provoking city, Hiroshima has risen from the ashes and is a key highlight on this tour. Visit the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, founded in memory of the nuclear attack that killed thousands and totally destroyed the city during World War II, with visual remains from the day the atomic bomb was dropped. The city has had over 60 years to recover and is now thriving and beautiful, with sculptures and monuments standing in commemoration. Hiroshima is also known for Okonomiyaki, Japanese savoury pancakes that come in a number of tasty variations, usually topped with Japanese mayonnaise and delicious Okonomiyaki sauce!”

Will, our resident Japan expert, loves all things Japanese. But what, I asked him, does he miss most about his travels there?

Will stayed with a Japanese family in Tokyo for two weeks in April and another 10 days in October, so had a really good chance to get to know the Japanese people and their culture. These are the top 5 things that he misses most about Japan…

5. Cherry Blossoms
I was lucky enough to witness the cherry blossom in full bloom the first time I visited Japan. Sakura, as it is known in Japan, is the nation’s favourite flower and blooms for little over a week in spring. Cherry blossom viewing parties known as ‘Hanami’ are held during this time and it is custom for friends and family to gather under the trees to eat and drink.

4. Cleanliness
Japan is an incredibly clean place, there isn’t a single piece of litter anywhere in sight and you could almost eat your dinner off the floor. Everywhere I went was clean and tidy, it made being in a foreign country so much more comfortable and adds to the great impression of Japan everyone leaves with.

3. Customer service
Despite not being able to speak or read much Japanese, I always felt welcome everywhere I went in Japan. When entering a shop or restaurant a chorus of “irasshaimase!” can be heard, which literally means, “come in!”. Everyone is incredibly polite and I even found myself taking up some of the mannerisms, bowing my head to shop assistants as they greeted me. I recall one time I was buying a book at store in Tokyo and as I was leaving nearby employees all thanked me with “arigato gozaimasu!” and a smile.  It’s a small thing but it surprised me and it’s something I definitely miss.

2. People
I miss being around Japanese people. I miss sharing a tube carriage with students and commuters, all with their heads down, eyes fixated on the glowing screens of their mobile phones or handheld videogame systems. I miss the young, trendy and fashionable people of Shibuya and Harajuku. I miss the obsessive Otaku and the elegantly dressed maids seen wandering the colourful Electric Town of Akihabara. I miss spotting the occasional colourful kimono mingled within a crowd of black suits at the busy JR stations. I miss the polite, friendly and kind people that I grew to love during my stay in Japan and I can’t wait to go back and meet them again.

1. Food
Of all the amazing experiences I have had in Japan, the thing I miss most is Japanese food. It’s so convenient and affordable to have a nice meal wherever you go. My favourite Ramen place in Harajuku is a great example of this; ice-cold Oolong tea is waiting for you when you take a seat and your food is delivered within minutes of ordering. Prices are very reasonable too, a bowl of ramen costing roughly ¥600 (about £4 at the time of writing). Other places may opt for a ticket system, where food is ordered on a machine that dispenses printed tickets. These are then given to the chef who will bring your order as soon as you can say “itadakimasu!” (Thank you for the food!). Food is a huge part of the culture in Japan and one of my personal highlights from the time I spent there.

If, like me, you have already fallen under Japan’s spell and want to experience it for yourself, you can book yourself onto our Japanese adventure holiday Shogun Trail.